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Monday, April 4, 2016

Self-Catering Apartments - Are They Right For You? Part 1: Florence Casa Iris

   As you're planning your trip to Italy, you'll have to decide early where you'll spend your nights. I'm guessing that most people traveling on vacations far from home choose to stay in a hotel, an inn or B & B, a rental villa or self-catering apartment. There are choices for every taste and budget. In each of our stays in Italy with one exception in Milan, we chose to rent an apartment. This worked out very  well for us each time.
 
   One of the best things about renting an apartment, aside from the obvious like saving money on meals, is the chance to live in an Italian neighborhood away from the tourist center hustle and bustle. If you're lucky enough to find an apartment with a balcony, you can open the doors to listen to the everyday sounds of Italian life. You don't usually get that by staying in a hotel in the city center.
 
   In 2011, after reading many reviews on Tripadvisor, Flipkey (Tuscany) and/or Booking.com, we were able to choose the best apartment for us. Our budget calls for spending no more than 100 euros a night, if possible, for lodging. Of course, a good exchange rate can definitely save you money. With a dollar/euro exchange rate of $1.39 a 100 euro/night apartment would be $139 per night, but if the rate is only $1.10 like on our last trip, the nightly cost is only $110 - a big savings!
 
   Once you've decided on a location, don't forget to read a lot of reviews because budget is hardly the only criteria to use when searching for your perfect place. When we were looking for our first apartment in Florence, the reviews describing the owners and the service they provided alone convinced us to go ahead and reserve Casa Iris (take a look at the owner's photos here). Not one of the excellent reviews turned out to be an exaggeration. So, on our very first trip to Italy we chose this apartment based more on reviews than on price - there were other apartments we found that were cheaper, but none compared to Casa Iris in any other way.

  The apartment is spacious and spotless with three bedrooms, three bathrooms, a nice eat-in kitchen equipped with everything you need for meal prep including some food staples, a small balcony and a large comfortable living room with a flat-screen TV which we never used. The Internet and wifi worked quickly and well. There is even a small washing machine to do your laundry. There are two flights of stairs, which was not a problem for us. The apartment is secure with with keyed entry into the building as well as into the unit itself.

   If you do choose to rent a car, there is an underground pay parking garage right across the street. Be aware that you will not be allowed to drive or park in most of the city center. If you're caught, be prepared to pay a stiff fine. One store nearby, that we visited daily, was the Essalunga Supermarket on Masaccio (about a 8 minute walk from the apartment). You can find whatever you need there, including excellent wine at very reasonable prices. There are several city bus stops within about three minutes of the apartment door. Two of the buses will take you to points in the city center like the Santa Maria Novella (SMN) Train Station and points in between and, one where you can board Bus #7 to Fiesole. The city bus service in Florence is excellent.

The location of Casa Iris near Piazza della Liberta, (a local landmark) far enough from the sometimes noisy City center (citta centro), but close enough for walking. It's approximately a 20 minute walk to the Duomo at a steady clip and 25-30 minutes to the SMN train station and the SITA bus station. The Uffizi Gallery is about 20 minutes walking and The Accademia Gallery are about 15 minutes. We found that Casa Iris was ideal for all of our day trips to other cities like Venice, Rome, Siena, San Gimignano, Bologna, Pisa, Lucca and many more. Plus,there is so much to see in Florence that is just a 20-30 minute walk away or a 10-20 minute city bus ride. Here are Tripadvisor's top 10 attractions in Florence. You can not be bored!

   We loved everything about this apartment from its amenities to its location, but especially, its owners Gabriele and Stefania, who were there for all of our questions and solved any minor problems immediately. Their attention to detail can't be beat. Our 16 day stay was perfect! We liked this apartment so much that we rented it again, for two weeks in 2014. Gabriele and Stefania also have a smaller one bedroom apartment which we rented for 7 days in 2015, Aurora Apartment on the same street that I'll feature in my next post.
Door to Casa Iris
,
Barry relaxing on the balcony at Casa Iris


Debbie hanging out laundry

Great internet and wifi!

One of three very nice bedrooms

Calling it a night...

Keeping out the sun...

Lunch at Casa Iris

 

Sunday, March 20, 2016

Trattoria, Osteria and Ristorante - Finding A Place To Eat

   Half the fun of our trips to Italy has been finding and enjoying good places to eat. Whether you choose a trattoria, osteria or ristorante for your next meal, a great way to choose a restaurant is just by reading the posted menu and peeking in the front window. We've found most of ours that way. We have rarely been disappointed. Asking the hotel staff, concierge or your self-catering apartment/villa owner is also a great way to find a restaurant with good food and Italian atmosphere. Some say to look for places that seem full of locals and places without photos of their food on the menu board.  
   Many restaurants in cities like Florence, Rome and Venice exist because of the tourist trade, but if you choose to eat at a place with a tourist menu in English that is offering a complete meal with a glass of wine for 10 euros, you might not be disappointed. We have eaten at several "tourist restaurants" and found that the food and wine were more than adequate. Everything depends on your dining expectations and your budget.
   Several of our best dining experiences have occurred when we headed down a side street or alley and came upon the perfect little trattoria. Three restaurants that come to mind were all found a little outside the main tourist haunts, but still within walking distance of city centers.
 One we discovered on our second in Florence visit, when the four of us were starving after a long day of sight-seeing in Rome, so we headed out of our apartment on foot to find a place for dinner. We decided to try to stay in our neighborhood and were fortunate to find Il Cavaliere Ristorante on Viale Spartaco Lavagnini 20. This small, family owned restaurant exceeded our expectations with its delicious traditional Tuscan meals and excellent wine. I ordered Ravioli ricotta e spinaci (spinach and ricotta ravioli) and Debbie had Spaghetti alle vongole (spaghetti with clams). Both were delectable. What a delightful evening!  With a bottle of Vernaccia di San Gimignano, our dinner check was about 45 euros.
Il Cavaliere Ristorante, Florence

   On our most recent trip in November 2015, Debbie and I found two more excellent restaurants. Since we were having supper at our apartment some nights, we enjoyed seeking out little trattorias for lunch in each city we visited. Two favorites stand out: the first, Trattoria da Giampi e Ciccio at via Farini 31/B, was in Bologna, where we both had wonderful pasta meals and house wine for 34 euros.
Trattoria da Giampi e Ciccio, Bologna

    The second, in Bergamo (a city that we loved that wasn't even on our itinerary), we ventured down a side street after seeing a sign on the corner for Ristorante Lalimentari, via Tassis, 3a, Bergamo Alta. We were very pleased. The service, atmosphere, food and wine were excellent. Our total for lunch with wine was 44 euros. Be sure to ride the funicolare up to the old city to get to this restaurant.
Ristorante Lalimentari, Bergamo
Ristorante Lalimentari, Bergamo

Thursday, March 10, 2016

Feeling a bit lazy today, so I thought I'd just post a photo array of a few of our experiences and places we've visited it Italy. Hope you enjoy the photos we took. These photos are all from our first trip in June/July 2011.
Street performer near the Uffizi in Florence
Street performer near the Uffizi in Florence


Street performer near the Uffizi in Florence

Our very first view of the Ponte Vecchio in Florence

Cinque Terre

Cinque Terre

Cinque Terre

Cinque Terre

Cinque Terre view from the hiking trail

Our entrance gate to San Gimignano

Towers of San Gimignano

Greve in Chianti

Fiesole
Fiesole cafe
Wine shop in Fiesole
Fiesole al fresco


Wednesday, March 2, 2016

How Much Will It Cost?



 How much will it cost? This is always a tough question to answer on your own if you're planning your first trip to Italy. On this post, I'll share what our actual expenditures were on our most recent vacation in Italy. Whether you're staying for a single week or a month, the costs of traveling can be high. There are so many variables. One cost that I check often, mostly just out of curiosity, is the euro/dollar exchange rate. Another, that I receive email alerts from Kayak, Tripadvisor, Swiss International Airlines and Aer Lingus is airfare for the dates we're hoping to travel. A third might be the fluctuating room rates at hotels. Depending on where you choose to stay when you travel, which airline you use and whether or not to rent a car, your what you will spend can vary widely.
On our way!

   We have found, more than once, that our airfares turned out to be our single biggest expense. For that reason, and because we are retired, we have been fortunate to spend 14 to 16 days in Italy on each visit. Plane tickets are just too expensive for us to stay just seven days. But, if you have only 7 days, plan a less ambitious itinerary and get going! You can still have a wonderful trip if you focus on having the Italian experience concentrating more on one locale or two. More on this in a future post. On our first trip in June/July 2011, our economy tickets on Swiss cost $1252 each. In September/October 2014, our tickets cost $1420 each, once again, on Swiss. Last year, in November 2015, the cost was just $655 each on Aer Lingus! So, you can see a major fluctuation in prices. The 2015 trip wasn't planned or thought of, until we got the email price alert from Aer Lingus on August 28, 2015. By the 31st, we had booked our flights for November 7th. That gave just a little over two months to arrange lodging, renew our passports, reserve train tickets and pay deposits. On September 2, 2015, we had new passport photos taken at the post office and mailed our new applications. We also reserved a hotel room in Milan for our first three days in Italy. Since the great plane ticket price required flying into the Linate airport in Milan, we got to visit that city and area for the first time.
   Now, back to the costs of the trip. Our flights were a total of $1314; the hotel room in Milan was $345 ($115/night); our rental apartment in Bologna for the second three days was $338 ($113/night); seven nights at the apartment in Florence was $500 ($71/night) and one more night in Milan for our departure was $94. Our reserved seat train tickets that we purchased online before we left were $86. Those tickets took us from Milan to Bologna, Bologna to Florence and Florence to Milan all 2nd class on Trenitalia's fast trains, the Frecciargento and the Frecciarossa. The tickets prices were greatly discounted by buying them in advance online. Of course, then, we were tied into specific dates and times, regardless of weather or changes in plans. We had no problems with that.
Debbie relaxing in our Bologna apartment


Flights $1314
Lodging $1325
Trains (res.) $86
Other trans.$264 (taxis, regional trains, buses, ferries)
Food, misc.$900 (our pre-trip estimate was $1500)
 Total         $3889 (give or take $100-200)

That brings our total for the 14 day 2015 trip to $3889. (we had additional costs for boarding our dog, Sandie ($447 after a long-stay discount) and rental cars to/from the airport in Boston ($235) where parking our car would have cost about $200 for 16 days. We chose not to leave our car there for that long. Also, our US passport renewals cost about $250, which we won't have to do again for 10 more years. Please note that even if you have six months left until your passport renewal date, some countries, like Italy won't accept them. Get your passport renewed if you will have six months or less on their expiration date by the time you travel.
   Not only were the plane fares great, the exchange rate dollars to euros was the best we've had on our three trips: 2015 ($1.09), 2014 ($1.31) and 2011 ($1.46). We were paying about 26% less in 2015 than we were in 2011!
   On our 16 day 2011 trip, we spent about $6400 due to higher plane fares, larger apartment rental and a less friendly exchange rate. In 2014, four of us traveled together for 14 days and split the cost of the same 3 bedroom/3 bath apartment ($1834/$130 per night) we had rented in 2011, so our total costs were about $5900 even though plane fares were higher.
  Obviously, there are a lot of factors that can influence how much your trip will cost. Restaurant prices vary as widely in Italy as they do anywhere else. We rarely chose $$$$ expensive places to eat and several times each year, we prepared our own meals at our apartment. Lodging can be a huge expense with choices for a hotel room ranging from $45 to $750 a night. Self-catering apartments can run between $60 and $400 per night. You can save a lot of money buying some train tickets before you leave home. Museum tickets and passes can be pretty costly, too, but be sure to include them in your budget.
   Lastly, don't let the exchange rate prevent you from making your plans and going on the trip of a lifetime. And, once you're in Italy, the sooner you stop calculating euros into to dollars every time you eat out or buy something, you will begin to enjoy your trip even more. Italy is waiting for you. Get going!
From our balcony at Hotel Mythos in Milan

Monday, February 22, 2016

Ten Helpful Hints for Traveling in Italy

Traveling to other countries can be challenging at times. Learning a few things about the rules and customs of Italy before you go can help a lot. Here are ten hints that can help you enjoy your trip.
Debbie waiting for a train with our luggage.

1. This one bears repeating: always validate your train tickets BEFORE boarding your train. Unless you have a reserved seat ticket printed from your printer, or a saved one on your cell phone. You are liable to pay a very stiff fine of 50 euros and possibly be removed from the train at the next stop!
Train ticket validation machine as found on train station platforms.

2. Always validate your bus tickets on the bus when you board. If you don't, you might face the same fine as above of 50 euros! A couple we were traveling with in Florence were escorted to a bank to withdraw 100 euros to pay their fine on the spot! For the whole story, please see the post "Our Bus Ticket Fiasco in Florence" below.
Bus ticket validation machine as found on a city bus.

3. At restaurants, there is almost always a “pane e coperto” which literally means “ bread and tableware”. Sometimes, it just says, “coperto.” This is a basically service/cover charge that is included on the check for each guest. It can usually be found on the menu. The amount usually ranges from  €1,50 to €2,50 each. You should always receive an itemized bill for your meal, drinks, coperto and servizio (service charge, if there is one). Look for "servizio" and "coperto" on the menu first so you won't be surprised when you get your check.


Sample menu and check with "pane e coperto" charges.

4. When asked in a restaurant if you would like water with your meal, it is usually referring to bottled water that you pay for – either "acqua naturale" (still or plain) or aqua "frizzante" or "gassata" (with bubbles). Most Italians prefer bottled water for the taste even though their tap water is perfectly safe to drink. We often drank tap water in our self-catering apartment rentals.

5. When staying in a hotel in Italy, your key card might also be used to activate the lights in your room.  This is touted as a power saving idea. So, when you enter your room you need to slide your key card into the slot on the reader and leave it there to have power. When you leave, take your key card with you. This could be a problem if you’re hoping to charge a laptop while your gone, but if you have two cards, you could leave one in the reader if you’re comfortable with that. Or, I've seen online that you could try to inserting a business card to see if that works…we didn’t try that yet.
Typical key card electrical activator in a hotel room.

6. In Italian restaurants, don’t expect nice Italian bread with olive oil and balsamic vinegar for dipping that you might find in restaurants at home. This is not an Italian thing. Bread may be served but generally it is for cleaning up any leftover sauce on your plate by “fare la scarpetta” ("to make a little shoe") to sop up the sauce.

7. You have to ask for the check, “il conto, per favore” (the total/bill , please). Don’t say “il canto” ("the singing") like I did – the waiter broke out into song!

8. Try to speak a bit of Italian. It will be appreciated. Especially, say, “Per favore” ("please") with each question, request or order. Also, remember "Prego," which means "you're welcome," among other things.

9. As mentioned above, it is great to learn some important phrases and words in Italian for your stay. It is Italy, after all.While many people speak English, it is nice to start a conversation with, “Buongiorno, Buona sera or Buona serata” ("good morning, good afternoon or good evening"). Having Google Translate on your iPhone can be a big help.

10. Be aware that many shops close between 1:00 and 4:00 in the afternoon for lunch.

Open/closing hours/days sign.

Tuesday, February 2, 2016

Planning Your Tuscany Itinerary

   So, you're beginning to plan your trip to Italy and you have chosen to see Tuscany first. This is so exciting! From this point until your departure date, you will probably immerse yourself in everything Italian. That's a good thing. All of the fun research you do will help you to find your way once you arrive at your destination.
   Debbie and I chose Florence to be our home base for our first 16 day stay. Immediately, I began searching the Forums on TripAdvisor for advice, suggestions, warnings and tips on travelling to and staying in that wonderful Renaissance city. So many questions in those helpful forums were from people just like us. People were seeking information and advice on planning their itineraries. A typical question would be, "With Florence as a home base for our four day stay, would it be doable to see Siena, San Gimignano, Cinque Terre, Lucca, Pisa and Venice?" The answers could be very encouraging of such an ambitious itinerary or reasonably advising not to try to see everything in so short a time. We found the answers very helpful in planning our first trip.
   Even a seven day stay in Tuscany will somewhat limit how much you'll get to see. We were fortunate to have 16 days which opened up a lot of opportunities for us. Florence alone could take a week just to touch on some of the high points. Realizing that for many a trip to Italy may be a once-in-a-lifetime chance, it would be tempting to say you can do it all, but attempting to do too much could cause a lot of stress. Much depends on whether you're going to rent a car (more on this in another post), or solely use public transportation like we did. Since we had decided not to rent a car, Florence was the perfect place for us, especially because we would travel to several towns by train. As we began to plan what places we would like to see, the Trenitalia web site became a frequent stop for us. Using Italian spellings for city names, it is pretty easy to get the cost and duration of your day-trip train transportation. This also helped us choose an itinerary that would be doable and enjoyable for us.
   We knew that there was a lot to see in Florence (Firenze), so we decided to take day-trips every other day and spend the alternate days discovering what Florence had to offer. This also gave us time to relax, enjoy our apartment, savor staying in a truly Italian neighborhood, shop for groceries and wine and do our laundry. With that in mind, we chose the following towns/places to visit: San Gimignano, Siena, Lucca, Fiesole (take bus #7 in Florence), Greve in Chianti (on a 1/2 day wine tour), Cinque Terre (on a one day tour) and finally, Venice for a day (which was not recommended by many). We were also lucky enough to have our apartment hosts (ora, i nostri amici), Gabriele and Stefania, take us on an adventure one evening to see Monteriggioni and Pienza, both of which were just beautiful.
   We did cover our whole itinerary without feeling too exhausted, though a few of the days, especially going to Cinque Terre and Venice, were very full. We did relax whenever a nice trattoria or caffe beckoned and we weren't averse to having another glass of great wine, lingering while people watching or taking in a spectacular view.  Each day day, we got up early and headed out on another venture.
   Now, that we have been to Florence three times for a total of five weeks, we realize how much more we have to see there. More soon on the sights of that city and on our itineraries from two more trips to Italy.
   If we could do all of this on our own, we're sure that you could, too. Remember, Italy is waiting for you!
Tuscan View
                             Piazza della Signoria, Florence

Cinque Terre View
                                                                                                         

Barry & Debbie in Corniglia, Cinque Terre


Piazza Dell'Anfiteatro, Lucca


Lucca Cafe


Venice