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Sunday, March 20, 2016

Trattoria, Osteria and Ristorante - Finding A Place To Eat

   Half the fun of our trips to Italy has been finding and enjoying good places to eat. Whether you choose a trattoria, osteria or ristorante for your next meal, a great way to choose a restaurant is just by reading the posted menu and peeking in the front window. We've found most of ours that way. We have rarely been disappointed. Asking the hotel staff, concierge or your self-catering apartment/villa owner is also a great way to find a restaurant with good food and Italian atmosphere. Some say to look for places that seem full of locals and places without photos of their food on the menu board.  
   Many restaurants in cities like Florence, Rome and Venice exist because of the tourist trade, but if you choose to eat at a place with a tourist menu in English that is offering a complete meal with a glass of wine for 10 euros, you might not be disappointed. We have eaten at several "tourist restaurants" and found that the food and wine were more than adequate. Everything depends on your dining expectations and your budget.
   Several of our best dining experiences have occurred when we headed down a side street or alley and came upon the perfect little trattoria. Three restaurants that come to mind were all found a little outside the main tourist haunts, but still within walking distance of city centers.
 One we discovered on our second in Florence visit, when the four of us were starving after a long day of sight-seeing in Rome, so we headed out of our apartment on foot to find a place for dinner. We decided to try to stay in our neighborhood and were fortunate to find Il Cavaliere Ristorante on Viale Spartaco Lavagnini 20. This small, family owned restaurant exceeded our expectations with its delicious traditional Tuscan meals and excellent wine. I ordered Ravioli ricotta e spinaci (spinach and ricotta ravioli) and Debbie had Spaghetti alle vongole (spaghetti with clams). Both were delectable. What a delightful evening!  With a bottle of Vernaccia di San Gimignano, our dinner check was about 45 euros.
Il Cavaliere Ristorante, Florence

   On our most recent trip in November 2015, Debbie and I found two more excellent restaurants. Since we were having supper at our apartment some nights, we enjoyed seeking out little trattorias for lunch in each city we visited. Two favorites stand out: the first, Trattoria da Giampi e Ciccio at via Farini 31/B, was in Bologna, where we both had wonderful pasta meals and house wine for 34 euros.
Trattoria da Giampi e Ciccio, Bologna

    The second, in Bergamo (a city that we loved that wasn't even on our itinerary), we ventured down a side street after seeing a sign on the corner for Ristorante Lalimentari, via Tassis, 3a, Bergamo Alta. We were very pleased. The service, atmosphere, food and wine were excellent. Our total for lunch with wine was 44 euros. Be sure to ride the funicolare up to the old city to get to this restaurant.
Ristorante Lalimentari, Bergamo
Ristorante Lalimentari, Bergamo

Thursday, March 10, 2016

Feeling a bit lazy today, so I thought I'd just post a photo array of a few of our experiences and places we've visited it Italy. Hope you enjoy the photos we took. These photos are all from our first trip in June/July 2011.
Street performer near the Uffizi in Florence
Street performer near the Uffizi in Florence


Street performer near the Uffizi in Florence

Our very first view of the Ponte Vecchio in Florence

Cinque Terre

Cinque Terre

Cinque Terre

Cinque Terre

Cinque Terre view from the hiking trail

Our entrance gate to San Gimignano

Towers of San Gimignano

Greve in Chianti

Fiesole
Fiesole cafe
Wine shop in Fiesole
Fiesole al fresco


Wednesday, March 2, 2016

How Much Will It Cost?



 How much will it cost? This is always a tough question to answer on your own if you're planning your first trip to Italy. On this post, I'll share what our actual expenditures were on our most recent vacation in Italy. Whether you're staying for a single week or a month, the costs of traveling can be high. There are so many variables. One cost that I check often, mostly just out of curiosity, is the euro/dollar exchange rate. Another, that I receive email alerts from Kayak, Tripadvisor, Swiss International Airlines and Aer Lingus is airfare for the dates we're hoping to travel. A third might be the fluctuating room rates at hotels. Depending on where you choose to stay when you travel, which airline you use and whether or not to rent a car, your what you will spend can vary widely.
On our way!

   We have found, more than once, that our airfares turned out to be our single biggest expense. For that reason, and because we are retired, we have been fortunate to spend 14 to 16 days in Italy on each visit. Plane tickets are just too expensive for us to stay just seven days. But, if you have only 7 days, plan a less ambitious itinerary and get going! You can still have a wonderful trip if you focus on having the Italian experience concentrating more on one locale or two. More on this in a future post. On our first trip in June/July 2011, our economy tickets on Swiss cost $1252 each. In September/October 2014, our tickets cost $1420 each, once again, on Swiss. Last year, in November 2015, the cost was just $655 each on Aer Lingus! So, you can see a major fluctuation in prices. The 2015 trip wasn't planned or thought of, until we got the email price alert from Aer Lingus on August 28, 2015. By the 31st, we had booked our flights for November 7th. That gave just a little over two months to arrange lodging, renew our passports, reserve train tickets and pay deposits. On September 2, 2015, we had new passport photos taken at the post office and mailed our new applications. We also reserved a hotel room in Milan for our first three days in Italy. Since the great plane ticket price required flying into the Linate airport in Milan, we got to visit that city and area for the first time.
   Now, back to the costs of the trip. Our flights were a total of $1314; the hotel room in Milan was $345 ($115/night); our rental apartment in Bologna for the second three days was $338 ($113/night); seven nights at the apartment in Florence was $500 ($71/night) and one more night in Milan for our departure was $94. Our reserved seat train tickets that we purchased online before we left were $86. Those tickets took us from Milan to Bologna, Bologna to Florence and Florence to Milan all 2nd class on Trenitalia's fast trains, the Frecciargento and the Frecciarossa. The tickets prices were greatly discounted by buying them in advance online. Of course, then, we were tied into specific dates and times, regardless of weather or changes in plans. We had no problems with that.
Debbie relaxing in our Bologna apartment


Flights $1314
Lodging $1325
Trains (res.) $86
Other trans.$264 (taxis, regional trains, buses, ferries)
Food, misc.$900 (our pre-trip estimate was $1500)
 Total         $3889 (give or take $100-200)

That brings our total for the 14 day 2015 trip to $3889. (we had additional costs for boarding our dog, Sandie ($447 after a long-stay discount) and rental cars to/from the airport in Boston ($235) where parking our car would have cost about $200 for 16 days. We chose not to leave our car there for that long. Also, our US passport renewals cost about $250, which we won't have to do again for 10 more years. Please note that even if you have six months left until your passport renewal date, some countries, like Italy won't accept them. Get your passport renewed if you will have six months or less on their expiration date by the time you travel.
   Not only were the plane fares great, the exchange rate dollars to euros was the best we've had on our three trips: 2015 ($1.09), 2014 ($1.31) and 2011 ($1.46). We were paying about 26% less in 2015 than we were in 2011!
   On our 16 day 2011 trip, we spent about $6400 due to higher plane fares, larger apartment rental and a less friendly exchange rate. In 2014, four of us traveled together for 14 days and split the cost of the same 3 bedroom/3 bath apartment ($1834/$130 per night) we had rented in 2011, so our total costs were about $5900 even though plane fares were higher.
  Obviously, there are a lot of factors that can influence how much your trip will cost. Restaurant prices vary as widely in Italy as they do anywhere else. We rarely chose $$$$ expensive places to eat and several times each year, we prepared our own meals at our apartment. Lodging can be a huge expense with choices for a hotel room ranging from $45 to $750 a night. Self-catering apartments can run between $60 and $400 per night. You can save a lot of money buying some train tickets before you leave home. Museum tickets and passes can be pretty costly, too, but be sure to include them in your budget.
   Lastly, don't let the exchange rate prevent you from making your plans and going on the trip of a lifetime. And, once you're in Italy, the sooner you stop calculating euros into to dollars every time you eat out or buy something, you will begin to enjoy your trip even more. Italy is waiting for you. Get going!
From our balcony at Hotel Mythos in Milan

Monday, February 22, 2016

Ten Helpful Hints for Traveling in Italy

Traveling to other countries can be challenging at times. Learning a few things about the rules and customs of Italy before you go can help a lot. Here are ten hints that can help you enjoy your trip.
Debbie waiting for a train with our luggage.

1. This one bears repeating: always validate your train tickets BEFORE boarding your train. Unless you have a reserved seat ticket printed from your printer, or a saved one on your cell phone. You are liable to pay a very stiff fine of 50 euros and possibly be removed from the train at the next stop!
Train ticket validation machine as found on train station platforms.

2. Always validate your bus tickets on the bus when you board. If you don't, you might face the same fine as above of 50 euros! A couple we were traveling with in Florence were escorted to a bank to withdraw 100 euros to pay their fine on the spot! For the whole story, please see the post "Our Bus Ticket Fiasco in Florence" below.
Bus ticket validation machine as found on a city bus.

3. At restaurants, there is almost always a “pane e coperto” which literally means “ bread and tableware”. Sometimes, it just says, “coperto.” This is a basically service/cover charge that is included on the check for each guest. It can usually be found on the menu. The amount usually ranges from  €1,50 to €2,50 each. You should always receive an itemized bill for your meal, drinks, coperto and servizio (service charge, if there is one). Look for "servizio" and "coperto" on the menu first so you won't be surprised when you get your check.


Sample menu and check with "pane e coperto" charges.

4. When asked in a restaurant if you would like water with your meal, it is usually referring to bottled water that you pay for – either "acqua naturale" (still or plain) or aqua "frizzante" or "gassata" (with bubbles). Most Italians prefer bottled water for the taste even though their tap water is perfectly safe to drink. We often drank tap water in our self-catering apartment rentals.

5. When staying in a hotel in Italy, your key card might also be used to activate the lights in your room.  This is touted as a power saving idea. So, when you enter your room you need to slide your key card into the slot on the reader and leave it there to have power. When you leave, take your key card with you. This could be a problem if you’re hoping to charge a laptop while your gone, but if you have two cards, you could leave one in the reader if you’re comfortable with that. Or, I've seen online that you could try to inserting a business card to see if that works…we didn’t try that yet.
Typical key card electrical activator in a hotel room.

6. In Italian restaurants, don’t expect nice Italian bread with olive oil and balsamic vinegar for dipping that you might find in restaurants at home. This is not an Italian thing. Bread may be served but generally it is for cleaning up any leftover sauce on your plate by “fare la scarpetta” ("to make a little shoe") to sop up the sauce.

7. You have to ask for the check, “il conto, per favore” (the total/bill , please). Don’t say “il canto” ("the singing") like I did – the waiter broke out into song!

8. Try to speak a bit of Italian. It will be appreciated. Especially, say, “Per favore” ("please") with each question, request or order. Also, remember "Prego," which means "you're welcome," among other things.

9. As mentioned above, it is great to learn some important phrases and words in Italian for your stay. It is Italy, after all.While many people speak English, it is nice to start a conversation with, “Buongiorno, Buona sera or Buona serata” ("good morning, good afternoon or good evening"). Having Google Translate on your iPhone can be a big help.

10. Be aware that many shops close between 1:00 and 4:00 in the afternoon for lunch.

Open/closing hours/days sign.

Tuesday, February 2, 2016

Planning Your Tuscany Itinerary

   So, you're beginning to plan your trip to Italy and you have chosen to see Tuscany first. This is so exciting! From this point until your departure date, you will probably immerse yourself in everything Italian. That's a good thing. All of the fun research you do will help you to find your way once you arrive at your destination.
   Debbie and I chose Florence to be our home base for our first 16 day stay. Immediately, I began searching the Forums on TripAdvisor for advice, suggestions, warnings and tips on travelling to and staying in that wonderful Renaissance city. So many questions in those helpful forums were from people just like us. People were seeking information and advice on planning their itineraries. A typical question would be, "With Florence as a home base for our four day stay, would it be doable to see Siena, San Gimignano, Cinque Terre, Lucca, Pisa and Venice?" The answers could be very encouraging of such an ambitious itinerary or reasonably advising not to try to see everything in so short a time. We found the answers very helpful in planning our first trip.
   Even a seven day stay in Tuscany will somewhat limit how much you'll get to see. We were fortunate to have 16 days which opened up a lot of opportunities for us. Florence alone could take a week just to touch on some of the high points. Realizing that for many a trip to Italy may be a once-in-a-lifetime chance, it would be tempting to say you can do it all, but attempting to do too much could cause a lot of stress. Much depends on whether you're going to rent a car (more on this in another post), or solely use public transportation like we did. Since we had decided not to rent a car, Florence was the perfect place for us, especially because we would travel to several towns by train. As we began to plan what places we would like to see, the Trenitalia web site became a frequent stop for us. Using Italian spellings for city names, it is pretty easy to get the cost and duration of your day-trip train transportation. This also helped us choose an itinerary that would be doable and enjoyable for us.
   We knew that there was a lot to see in Florence (Firenze), so we decided to take day-trips every other day and spend the alternate days discovering what Florence had to offer. This also gave us time to relax, enjoy our apartment, savor staying in a truly Italian neighborhood, shop for groceries and wine and do our laundry. With that in mind, we chose the following towns/places to visit: San Gimignano, Siena, Lucca, Fiesole (take bus #7 in Florence), Greve in Chianti (on a 1/2 day wine tour), Cinque Terre (on a one day tour) and finally, Venice for a day (which was not recommended by many). We were also lucky enough to have our apartment hosts (ora, i nostri amici), Gabriele and Stefania, take us on an adventure one evening to see Monteriggioni and Pienza, both of which were just beautiful.
   We did cover our whole itinerary without feeling too exhausted, though a few of the days, especially going to Cinque Terre and Venice, were very full. We did relax whenever a nice trattoria or caffe beckoned and we weren't averse to having another glass of great wine, lingering while people watching or taking in a spectacular view.  Each day day, we got up early and headed out on another venture.
   Now, that we have been to Florence three times for a total of five weeks, we realize how much more we have to see there. More soon on the sights of that city and on our itineraries from two more trips to Italy.
   If we could do all of this on our own, we're sure that you could, too. Remember, Italy is waiting for you!
Tuscan View
                             Piazza della Signoria, Florence

Cinque Terre View
                                                                                                         

Barry & Debbie in Corniglia, Cinque Terre


Piazza Dell'Anfiteatro, Lucca


Lucca Cafe


Venice

Thursday, January 21, 2016

Plan Your Own Trip To Italy

   So you’re beginning to plan your first trip to Italy, finally hoping to see Tuscany and many other wonders of this fantastic country. There is no reason to feel daunted by perceived difficulties of choosing an itinerary, currency exchange, when to buy plane or train tickets or where to stay. The Internet age has made it so much easier to research everything for your adventure. If you feel more at ease using a travel agent, go ahead. Just get going!
   When Debbie and I planned our first trip to Italy in 2011, we were far from being international travelers. I had spent a month in Europe in 1974 when I was 26 traveling everywhere by train with my Eurail pass and my copy of Europe on Five & Ten Dollars a Day. We had also visited Ireland twice in 2006 and 2007, once spending a week in Kenmare in a wonderful self-catering cottage and another week in Doolin, also in a nice beautiful ocean view cottage. Both of those trips we planned on our own, from choosing a cottage, purchasing plane tickets on Aer Lingus, renting a car and choosing an itinerary. All went well. Those trips did give us more confidence to fulfill our mutual dream of going to Italy.
   There are a multitude of web sites to help you plan your trip. Our favorite from the beginning has been TripAdvisor for advice about restaurants, sights to see, lodging and transportation. For finding a great apartment, cottage or villa rental there are many web sites. We have been successful with FlipKey and Booking.com. The key to using these sites for us has been reading as many traveler reviews as possible before making a choice. Rick Steves' web site is also particularly helpful on a lot of different levels from what to see and what to avoid.
   In 2011, our 16 day stay in Florence was just wonderful. We did not rent a car, but instead used city buses, regional buses and trains to get everywhere. We are in good physical shape, so we actually walked a lot more than taking the bus, averaging about 8 miles a day. Our day trips, mostly by train, took us to Lucca, Greve in Chianti, San Gimignano, Siena (take the “rapida” bus), Fiesole (take bus #7), Pienza & Monteriggioni with friends by car, Cinque Terre on a bus/walking/ train/boat tour and we even took the fast train to Venice for a day!
   You can do it, too!
I hope you’ll enjoy some of the photos from our first trip.


 Barry & Debbie at the Duomo, Florence
                                       
Piazza del Campo, Siena
The Duomo, Florence


The Grand Canal, Venice


Monday, January 4, 2016

Our Bus Ticket Fiasco in Florence



   On our second trip to Tuscany in September/October 2014, four of us stayed in the same wonderful apartment Casa Iris that Debbie and I rented in 2011. On our last full day there, we decided to take the city buses to Piazzale Michelangelo to see the most spectacular view of the city of Florence. Since the bus ticket was good for 90 minutes, we thought we could make the whole trip from Piazza della Liberta near our apartment to the city center by the Santa Maria Novella train station and then up the hill to Piazzale Michelangelo and back to SMN on one ticket each. All went well until one stop before SMN station on the way back, when the bus was boarded by three "bus police" officers. They came directly to us and demanded to see our tickets. Unfortunately, our time had run out five minutes earlier. They asked for our passports. I had a copy of mine; Debbie had neither her passport of a copy. The other couple had theirs.
   One officer said "these tickets are finished!" This resulted in a 50 euro fine for each of us! Another officer said "they are only five minutes over." That got our hopes up, but the first one was relentless, repeating, "the tickets are finished." We protested to no avail. Debbie and I paid them cash after we received our fines. They decided not to charge Debbie another 50 euros for not having her passport. Phew! Our travelling companions didn't have the cash and were escorted to the bank at the train station to withdraw the money!
   We were foolish to try to cut the timing so close on our tickets and, considering that we had extra tickets with us (the "police" didn't care), we should have just validated those when we noticed we were over the time. Also, we were aware of the possibility of a big fine if we hadn't validated the tickets when we boarded the bus. We weren't without fault in this fiasco. Bus tickets cost only 1,20 euro each at most tabacchi shops (look for the sign with the big "T") and are a good deal, so don't try to save money by stretching their time limit like we did. It's just not worth it. While the fines could be appealed within thirty days, it must be in Italian and you may have to be present. We decided not to worry about that.
    Lesson learned: always validate your bus ticket ON the bus (see two bottom photos) and pay attention to the time limit! Click ATAT Bus Tickets. Also, train tickets (top three photos) must be validated BEFORE boarding the train (unless you have reserved tickets that you printed at home) or you will face a similar fine. Look for the blue or yellow validation machines on the platform.
   We chose not to let that experience ruin our day and found a nice trattoria near San Lorenzo for lunch. The food was good and the wine relaxed us enough to talk, complain and laugh about the incident.